Background photo by Don Sylor
Robert Manz

Don’t-miss dining

Don’t be dismayed by the long line that usually snakes out into the parking lot at Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar (, 508-255-2575). The line moves fast, and even if it didn’t, the wait is worth it. People rave about the Fried Native Clam Roll here with whole bellies.

The Fairway Restaurant and Pizzeria is another good bet. Try the Rustic Italian Calzone with spicy Italian sausage, salami, tomatoes, garlic, black olives, and parmesan cheese.

If you’re looking for a fast lunch, grab a Rollwich—rolled pita bread sandwiches—at Box Lunch (, 508-255-0799), part of a Cape franchise. Enjoy the tasty John Alden, with turkey and cranberry sauce.

Insider’s tip

First Encounter Beach is so named because it’s where the Pilgrims first encountered Native Americans in 1620 during a small skirmish that everyone survived. But other activities along First Encounter’s shores also are worth noting. Over the years, pods of pilot whales have mysteriously beached themselves on Outer Cape beaches, particularly in Eastham and Wellfleet. Some of them are buried at First Encounter in an area marked with a 10-foot-tall tree stump. Occasionally a whale bone turns up, surprising the unsuspecting beachcomber. The horseshoe crab, which dates back to prehistoric times, is also known for its activity on First Encounter and other Cape Cod Bay beaches. In the spring, usually during the full moon at low tide, dozens of the dark, spider-like creatures, whose shells look like combat soldier helmets, can be seen mating in the moonlight.

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Donna Scaglione is a freelance writer living in Falmouth.

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Nauset Light Beach, Eastham

Nauset Light Beach, Eastham