Cape Cod HOME Summer 2017 | capecodlife.com

Farm fresh oysters at the Naked Oyster restaurant in Hyannis

Cape Cod Home  /  Summer 2017 / , ,

Writer: Julie Craven Wagner / Photographer: Jennifer Dow 

Farm fresh oysters at the Naked Oyster restaurant in Hyannis

Cape Cod HOME Summer 2017 | capecodlife.com

Cape Cod Home  /  Summer 2017 / , ,

Writer: Julie Craven Wagner / Photographer: Jennifer Dow 

Naked Oyster restaurant Hyannis

Photo by Jennifer Dow

Pristine waters, a good back and a big heart produce award-winning oysters for Hyannis’ Naked Oyster restaurant

Chef Florence Lowell rolls up her sleeves to prepare memorable meals for diners at her Hyannis restaurant, Naked Oyster. But her process starts long before she puts on her chef’s coat and picks up a knife. Lowell is a farmer—a farmer of the unique mollusk for which her restaurant is named. Oysters, perhaps because they are simple and sophisticated at the same time, enjoy a global fascination rooted in the same vernacular reserved for fine wine. While wine often attributes its subtle distinctions to the ‘terroir,’ the soil in which the vines thrive and derive the characteristics found in wine varietals, oysters are also influenced by their environment, the ‘merroir,’ or the flowing waters and sands of the various harbors that give names to their varieties.

Growing up on the other side of our Atlantic waters, on the coast of France, Lowell sees similarities between her childhood home and the seaside inlets and coves of the Cape. In 2010, after stints in Texas restaurants, she moved to the Cape and started farming oysters in Barnstable Harbor. Her beds are located not far from Sandy Neck and being the hands-on chef/farmer she is, she can more often than not be found in waist-high waders, tending and harvesting her beds of sublime delicacies.

A warm, winsome June morning found Lowell motoring out to the flats, as the pristine shallows softly receded to expose the sandbar designated for oyster aquaculture. As the seagulls soared, floated and investigated any opportunity for a morning snack on the back side of Sandy Neck’s barrier dunes, Lowell set about her work of checking her agronomy.

Julie Craven Wagner

Julie Craven Wagner began her experience with Cape Cod Life in 2010 when she joined the sales team after 10 years of working with local businesses on the Cape and Islands with WMVY. In addition to sales, she is the Associate Publisher/Editor of Cape Cod LIFE, Cape Cod HOME, and Cape Cod ART. Growing up on the Outer Cape has given her a unique perspective of life on Cape Cod, from tip to bridge, and that is reflected in her appreciation and presentation of stories found within the pages of our publications. Julie lives in North Falmouth with her husband, Eric, and their yellow lab, Enzo. When she finds free time, she enjoys her Cape Cod life sailing on Buzzards Bay, spending time on the beach in Wellfleet, or exploring Martha’s Vineyard.